106 Diesel Lack of Power

Hi all,


I recently purchased a Peugeot 106 1.5 Diesel with 150k on the clock. This
is my second 106 Diesel, the other I owned some years ago.

The problem I'm experiencing at the moment is a severe lack of power (or
to be more precise torque). The car seems ok on the motorway until you
meet the slightest incline and suddenly the car is struggling to do 45-50
with the accelerator is floored in 4th! Seems to be ok around town and low
down 'grunt' does not seem to be affected.

There is no evidence of excessive smoke from the exhaust, - in fact it is
one of the most smokeless diesels I've had!

It has recently been serviced (oil/filter, air filter, fuel filter,
t/belt) although it did miss the previous service (previous owners fault
not mine!)

The only thing i can think of that sounds suspicious is that the car
sounds slightly 'cammy'. Does anyone think it's worth checking the valve
clearances? are valve clearances critical on this engine? Any help much
appreciated.

Thanks

Niall

 

Hi,

That is my idea, too. This lack of power may well due to a bad valve
clearance. That is critical on TUDs (AX, Saxo, 106). Since oil & filters are
new, valve clearance is my only guess.

 

Hi,

Although it seems possible, I guess it is highly unlike.

Come on, I ain't got any experience. I'm not a mechanic, I don't work for
PSA by any means, BTW I've got no job for the moment.

Just a performance problem could well occur because of an incorrect valve
clearance, once you changed oil & filters. And TUs / TUDs are known to be
sensitive to valve clearance.

For the pump setup, it is possible, but I guess it is very unlike to
happen... Who woudl be so nut he'd like to modify the fuel pump setup ?
Yeah, some John Doe, OK.
The valve clearance is the easiest thing to check, if I ever had the
problem, I'd look at this at first time.

BTW, one car at my brother's work has the same problem (306 1.9D estate),
doesn't take more than 120KPH, whatever it is on 4th or 5th gear. I also do
suspect an incorrect valve clearance, but I don't know what's wrong (they've
got a division which has to overhaul cars, but they seem as good as
Halford's technicians).

 

My guess was some ecconomist tweaking the pump down for better fuel
consumption.
But I don't have your experience of these things GT.

jim.

 

You mention that the timing belt was recently serviced - what's the odds
it's one tooth out? Worth a check before doing anything drastic.
Dave

 

It was the lack of smoke on a 150K car along with low power that suggested
pump fiddling to me,
I know they usualy get fiddled for MORE power (less ecconomy) but that
always gives more smoke when clogging it along with a bit more power.
I wondered if the previous owner had twiddled the other way for the ultimate
in ecconomy (next to a push-bike).
Or even fiddled it down to get it through an emmison test?
I'm even less of a mechanic though ;-)
Sorry to hear you're 'between jobs'

jim.

 

I agree with Dave. First check the belt is fitted correctly. Could
well be one tooth out on the pump, which will give a "cammy" noise.
Then maybe check the tappets. Then see if you can find a friendly
garage that will check the emissions for you. These cars are not
usually very smoke free unless someone has been "playing" and turned
it right down for some reason.

 

Hi,

Not really a criteria to diagnose it, IMO, as my 83k miles 205D doesn't
smoke and has all its power. And I guess it will never smoke.

True, some ppl try to increase fuel ratio, and it smokes more than usual.
I've heard of a lad which has done it with a 106 D, which was able to reach
110MPH.

I'd rather say for an emission test.

OK then

Well, to be honnest, that's the kind of problem any french young man has to
cope with :-(

 

Hi all.

Many thanks for all the replies - much appreciated.

Yep! thought about the timing being out too - but the car performed as
badly before the belt was changed, so that's that ruled out - I think...
unless it's been like this for 72k!!.

To answer the other questions, the pump still has the original seals on
the high speed and low speed end-stops, so fiddling with the pump can also
be ruled out (to a certain degree). Why anyone would want to make the car
BETTER on Diesel though,is beyond me... If 58 - 70 MPG isn't good enough,
you shouldn't own a car!

I think I'll have to bite the bullet, rip the rocker cover off and measure
the clearances before deciding what the next step will be. By the way has
anyone ever changed the shims on a 106 1.5 with the camshaft still
in-situ? Apparently it can be done, I've done it on numerous Fiats so it's
not too different I would imagine. Any feedback on this would be helpful

Although I normally do all my own work, I got a garage to do the t/belt as
I did not have the necessary tool to tension the belt (or the time...) and
I don't have a great deal of experience with Peugeots (I'm a FIAT man). So
if doing the shims means taking the camshaft out I'll either have to find
some way of measuring the belt tension or give it to someone else to do.
Either way, I can't live with the car any longer the way it is.

Thanks again for all the replies,

Niall

 

Hi all.

Many thanks for all the replies - much appreciated.

Yep! thought about the timing being out too - but the car performed as
badly before the belt was changed, so that's that ruled out - I think...
unless it's been like this for 72k!!.

To answer the other questions, the pump still has the original seals on
the high speed and low speed end-stops, so fiddling with the pump can also
be ruled out (to a certain degree). Why anyone would want to make the car
BETTER on Diesel though,is beyond me... If 58 - 70 MPG isn't good enough,
you shouldn't own a car!

I think I'll have to bite the bullet, rip the rocker cover off and measure
the clearances before deciding what the next step will be. By the way has
anyone ever changed the shims on a 106 1.5 with the camshaft still
in-situ? Apparently it can be done, I've done it on numerous Fiats so it's
not too different I would imagine. Any feedback on this would be helpful

Although I normally do all my own work, I got a garage to do the t/belt as
I did not have the necessary tool to tension the belt (or the time...) and
I don't have a great deal of experience with Peugeots (I'm a FIAT man). So
if doing the shims means taking the camshaft out I'll either have to find
some way of measuring the belt tension or give it to someone else to do.
Either way, I can't live with the car any longer the way it is.

Thanks again for all the replies,

Niall

 

There is a tool that can be used to change the shims with the camshaft
in-situ. Peugeot garages should have it, as it was a mandatory issue,
BUT it wasn't too successful, and a pig of a job to use it. It is just
as quick and easier to remove the camshaft. The shims are the same as
the Fiat ones, by the way.
The way I do it. Measure the clearances. Get four cable ties and tie
the belt to the pump pulley and camshaft pulley (after timing the
engine up of course) at the points where the belt enters and leaves
the pulleys (if that makes sense!). Then remove the camshaft pulley
and let it hang away from the camshaft. Take off the camshaft, and
measure the thicknesses of the shims and calculate what shims are
needed. (This bit is as for Fiats, so should be easy for you). Then
replace all parts. Make sure the camshaft is in the right position and
push the pulley back on, tighten the bolt, remove the cable ties and
start the engine (after putting the cam cover back on!!) The belt
tension should be the same as before. I use this method to remove the
pumps. Never had any problems.