1998 406 ignition switch change

Morning all. The aux contacts on my switch seem to have gone again, after
being swapped out less than 3 years ago. As I contemplate my annual
pilgrimage to the french alps, I am quite keen to get the heater blower
working again!

This time around, I am wondering what is involved in changing the switch
myself (not entire ignition lock). I suspect its all well tamper-proofed and
security locked....what is involved exactly? Or should I avoid it and pay
though the nose again?

cheers,
John

 

I did this job a few months ago: it's really not too bad.

The lock is designed to be tamper-proof when in the locked position,
but dismantleable once the key is inserted and turmed to the "run"
position. The biggest problem I had was that the switch had got very
hot and melted the plastic body into a fused lump, so a certain amount
of persuasion was needed to turn the key to the correct position to
allow dismantling.

A Haynes book-of-lies did help.

Note that the switch comes with a new circlip, so you don't need to
carefully bend the old one back into shape. (I spotted that too
late.....) Also, you'll need a longish torx screwdriver to get the cowl
off. The electrics are easy, three colour-coded and keyed plugs.

A new switch cost 60 quid or so from a Peugeot dealer, and the job took
about an hour. It would take less time second time around, but I'm
hoping that I won't need to do it again.


Cheers,

Simon.

 

Cheers! From my experience, plan on it lasting 3 years or less!

 

It could be worth finding the high current culprit and checking that it is
in fact working correctly. It is also possible to add a relay to that
circuit, thus reducing the load on the switch.
Mine went on the starter contact, as the 30 amps or so that the solenoid
took was routed through the switch.
I was able to clean the switch only, then add a relay and it worked for ever
from then on.

 

2 30A c/o relays (£3ish). a bit of cable and 30mins to spare..... I'd
be tempted if it were my car but as it's not I couldn't possibly
recommend it.


J

 

I'll need to swap out the switch in any case, and seeing as the motor is a
1998 with 130,000 miles on it I reckon another 3 years will see it out. It
is just another indication of Peugeot's diabolical record on design of
auto-electrics. Later models do indeed use a relay slaved off the aux
contact - far more sensible!

2 30A c/o relays (£3ish). a bit of cable and 30mins to spare..... I'd
be tempted if it were my car but as it's not I couldn't possibly
recommend it.


J

 

Ouch! I just went to the Peugeot main agents. They claim they don't sell the
switch on its own, only the complete ignition lock assembly, which they say
they have to order from the key number. They want nearly 140 quid for supply
only! This sounds garbage to me....anyone know of a source of the switch
only?

Thanks,
John

 

They may be correct: when I bought a replacement switch, it took
reference to the VIN number to decide if I needed just a switch, or a
whole new lock. It looks like the design got changed at some point, and
you may be on the wrong side of the change. OTOH if they didn't check
the VIN, then they might be bullshitting. In that case returning,
quoting the VIN, might get results.


Cheers,

Simon.

 

Being nosey, what year is yours. I am interested in case I get the same
problem on my 1999 which is a hybrid of the MKI and MKII.

 

Late 98, but its got some of the 99 features so seems to be a changeover
model.

 

Sounds the same as mine then. MKl body styling with some MKll features
like an HDI engine and "invisible" passenger airbag. Only problem was that
I had to buy two Haynes manuals to cover everything.

Thanks for that, it means mine can probably be done separately like yours.
--
Keith Willcocks
(If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!)

 

Forget Main Stealers and use the power of Google and eBay. I bought a new switch (the plastic part that fits on the back of the lock barrel) for about £20 post paid from Poland. The switch proper has wires and plugs moulded onto it so no soldering is needed. The only curse is that the switch and lock are fitted into an anti-tamper steel pipe and someone has been in there messing at least once before. I reached the conclusion long ago that with Peugeots they seem to want the unfortunate owners to shove their vehicles into car crushers as many of the jobs are quite exasperating.

Unfortunately French cars are like that and one major epic was a bad-starting Renault Espace turbo-diesel that I bought (it was OK when I bought it!) For a while heavy duty jump leads would start it but then the starter motor burnt-out. Usual diesel problem of air in the fuel thought to be caused by hardened "O" rings in the fuel line connectors. SAE approved fuel hose was used to bypass the junk fuel line and once a new starter was fitted things seemed fine. Unfortunately the digital dashboard went black or blank after about another month. The fuel can be kept brim-full and a GPS can be used as a speedometer but driving such a car is horrible. Working on them is horrible too as getting to the starter was like peeling an onion.

Another baffling Espace fault was a leaking sump-plug. Several brand new copper washers were tried but it still leaked oil like the Torrey Canyon. The problem was a drunken-thread and the cure was a big fat squidgy rubber washer! i.e. an official bodge!