306 central locking wires replacement

Its central locking bounce time again and the wires from the connector on
the drivers side door (that cause central locking bounce when broken) have
been re-soldered too many times and are now quite short. I need to fit a
new connector and wires.

Has anyone here replaced this connector and wiring before ?

Do all of the wires go down to the fuse box area near the accelerator pedal?
How did you feed the wires through the hole in the door jam down to the fuse
area ?
Where is the hole where the wires re-enter the inside of the car ? (near the
fuse box ?) How do you get to it ?

Can you do it without removing the door ?

Thanks.

 

To answer your questions.
There is enough length in the wires to go down to the sill, where the
main loom is for the door, but I don't do that. You do need to remove
the door (just two bolts for the check strap and one bolt on each
hinge, then lift off).
On the new loom there are numbers, 1 to (I think) 23. You may not have
all these on your car. You need a continuity tester. One by one cut
the wires about an inch from the grommet and with the tester identify
which pin number it goes to. (If you look at the plug you can just see
the first and last number in each row---the first row is 1 to 3, the
second row is 4 to 8, and so on) Make a note on paper of colour of
wire and pin number. If two wires are the same colour then it's likely
they will be different sizes (I just write down small, medium and
large). Pull the grommet off the loom and put on the new loom down by
the plug. Then join the wires to the new plug having first cut the
wires to the same length plus 2 inches. It's easiest to use Raychem
connectors, then heat shrink them. Any wires not used just cut about
an inch shorter than the others and tape them up. They won't be live.
Rehang the door temporarily, connect the plug, and test the various
functions. Remove the door and using insulation tape, bind the loom
tightly all the way to the plug. then push the excess loom into the
body so that it loops downwards so any water will drip off the bottom
of the loop. Put the grommet back in to place and rehang the door with
the bolts and connect the plug. Hopefully all will now work. Good
luck!

 

solder is less bulky though with shrink tube
also get a chair in there its more comfy

 

Yes, I only use Raychems because I'm a losy solderer!! And definitely
use a chair. Stops the back aching.

 

Must be the time of year; mine's started doing the exact same thing last
week.

French electrics... :-/