306 TD starting problems

Hi,

Wondering if anyone has any suggestion. Once every few weeks my '98 TD
will refuse to start with the following symptoms:

1. When the key is turned to the second position, the radio changes to
CODE and the speedo and rev counter needles slam all the way round the
dials.

2. On turning the engine, it will make one pathetic attempt to turn
over and then the battery dies.

3. After this, any attempts to start it result in a lot of clicking but
nothing else.

Jump starting will start the car and it will be as right as rain for
two or three weeks.

I'm pulling my hair out over this one. My local garage say the battery
is fine and they can se no obvious faults. Hopefully someone here has
seen something similar happen and can help explain what's
happening.....


Graham Scott

 

If the alternator is charging the battery fine (battery at about 14v with
the engine running and anything above 12.25v engine off) then look at a bad
earth connection, there's one infront of the battery, I think it's on the
wing.

Also try to see if there is any significant current being drawn from the
battery when the key is out of the ignition and all the interior and
exterior lights are off, you'll need to insert a multimeter between the
battery and either of the cars two power leads to see the current being
drawn - warning: don't attempt to turn over the car when it's connected like
this! You'll blow the multimeter up or at the least blow the internal fuse.

Chris

 

They all sound like the battery is flat when you are trying to start
it.

Radio code re-sets when battery is flat or disconnected

Won't turn over quickly enough - battery is nearly flat

Speedo/tach needles moving strangely - they are re-calibrating after
loosing their settings due to a flat battery.

You should have approx 10v when cranking (trying to start) across the
battery and 12.2-12.5v when the car is switched off. You should have
13.5 - 14v when the car is running (assuming the battery wasn't
completely flat when you started it).

As the last poster said check the voltages and these will indicate
where the problems are. if it is charging OK (13.5-14v when running)
then either the battery is being drained when the car is stood or the
battery is duf.
If it it not charging OK then your alternator is duf - check the belt
driving it from the engine is tight and connected OK. If that's OK buy
a re-conditioned alternator.

 

I had the same problem with a 205. It was the bolt/nut by the connection to
the frame that had loosened. I cleaned it up and tightened the nut. Since
then had no problems.
Bo

 

Thanks for all the replies,

I've had the car at my regular mechanic today and he reckons all that
was wrong was that two of the glowpugs were knackered, so I've had all
four replaced. Just have to wait and see if that solves the problem.

G.

 

Can I be forward and ask how much it cost you?

Jim

 

Jim,

According to my invoice, 4 x Y923U Glow Plugs cost me £33.20. There
was labour on top of that but I was having other work done as well so
it would be unfair to include that I think.

Graham

 

Jim,

According to my invoice, 4 x Y923U Glow Plugs cost me £33.20. There
was labour on top of that but I was having other work done as well so
it would be unfair to include that I think.

Graham
Though knackered heater plugs certainly affect cold starting, they are
certainly not what I would have diagnosed given your original description.
Just be aware that the original problem might raise its ugly head again.
Brian.

 

Cheers for that. I have at least one blown but the back ones look like a
bit of a job to get to.

Jim

 

Just to (hopefully) tie this thread off. My problem seems to have been
solved by a combination of new glow plugs, a new battery, and checking
and replacing the connectors for the battery.

Seems to be coping well now, starting first time every morning this
week, even though there was a half inch of snow on the car in the
morning.