405 diesel estate warning light/crap heater?

Hello everyone,

Just wondered if anyone could confirm what the RED warning light on
the dash that comes on/off intermittently is? It looks like 3 wavy
lines with a sort of pan lid floating on top - coolant level warning
lamp perchance?

Sorry, I bought the car without a manual...

if it helps, its a 93 405 turbo diesel estate, UK model. The heater is
also crap, worked very mildly before I changed the coolant but now no
heat. Brrrrr, not good in January

Cheers

 

Yup, low coolant.

Cheers

Peter

 

David Youngs wrote in message

As Peter has said, the lamp is low coolant levelwarning.
When refilling, the cooling system must be bled otherwise airlocks could
easily stop the heater working.
Mine is a 1.8i petrol model and has a tyre valve type cap on the thermostat
housing to let the worst of the air out as you refil. Dont try and vent here
when the system is hot and under pressure as you could get a burn.
I don't know if the diesel is similar.

HTH

Bob

 

Guess so.
My old Xantia had a red warning lamp with a black symbol of what looks like
a casserole. No mention of it in the handbook, but it turned out to be
'water in fuel filter' warning. Maybe the Peugeot has similar. Just thought
I'd mention, so it won't frighten you if it flashes occasionally. There's no
cure, (apart from cutting the cable) draining the filter housing doesn't
stop it.
DaveK

 

So there must be a leak somewhere? If you'r lucky just a small one,
get the engine good and hot and have a look around. Don't ignore it
and just top up. that way stand to be looking at water pissing from a
big hole in the middle of nowhere </voice of experience>

 

Erm ... I side with the poster who thinks this is the water in diesel
filter warning light (if it is just to the right of centre at top of the
instrument panel and looks also a bit like a mobile phone ... my wife's
take).

IF SO ... the sensor is at the bottom of the fuel filter bowl on the
right next to the battery as you look in the engine compartment.

If it is doing it's job you need to bleed the water out of the bottom of
the fuel filter (see manual) and that's that.

If it is faulty then it's 60squid from Peugeot and the connector has
changed since the early models, so you need an electrial connector block
to rejoin wires. OR it might just be a bad connection -- wiggle around a
bit.

OR you can just clear the water every few thousand miles and disconnect
the sensor to stop the blinking thing err blinking.

If coolant level was low you'd see by taking the rad cap off or feeling
the top hose, or opening the bleed screw, or not having any heating ...
but I could be wrong.

If it is the water in diesel filter and you do nothing the car will stop
.... eventually.

 

Hi,

Yes, it is.

Nothing in the way of downloads available from Peugeot UK - I just
checked (

Same here - I've played with it unsuccessfully for 3 winters now, and
I'm well hacked off with it. (I live in Shetland, where car heaters are NOT
thought to be a luxury item.)

I may have got lucky - saw another thread today (dated 20-12-2004), that
relates to a 306 with the same problem (probably for the same reason). A
couple of guys responded by saying that the radiator has to be filled under
pressure using a header vessel, in order to allow enough of a head of
coolant to flush out an air-pocket in the system. Apparently, the top of the
radiator is lower than the top of heater matrix (due to a low bonnet-line)
which means that it can't be filled 'conventionally' (i.e. by simply
whipping the filler cap off and topping up the coolant) in order to get rid
of the air-pocket. Outrageous, eh? But the explanation I read makes perfect
sense, so I'll be trying it (yet again) soon - but in a much more
determined manner than previously.


Here's the whole transcript of the thread:

111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111

I have a 306 (N). But the heaters don't seem to be working properly. The
de-mister doesn't blow hot air at all, only cold and the blowers into the
car only blow slightly warm. I have changed the thermostat as it was stuck
open and completeley flushed out the entire system, refilled and bled. Any
ideas what the problem could be? Any thoughts would be greatly recieved.


22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222

Garages have a pressure vessel which they attach to the reservoir filler
neck and force coolant right through the system.
The secret is to have a supply of coolant at a higher level than the highest
point in the system. A big plastic bottle held up high and supplying coolant
via a piece of hosepipe tightly fitted into the top hose of the system can
do the job.
My old Renault 21 had little hand operated valves in the top hose and heater
hose which ensured all the air was out.
In a troublesome case you might try removing the pressure cap and allowing
the engine to run till it's so hot the fans cut in and the coolant boils out
of the reservoir.Might bring the air bubble out with it.

Daft innit,- in the search for efficiency bonnet heights get lower and lower
and you can't have a big tall radiator anymore, which didn't create these
problems.
DaveK.

333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333

I believe the correct procedure is to get an old empty coke bottle and cut
the bottom off it, then stick it upside down (filler neck first) into the
coolant vessel and fill the coke bottle up, this gives enough of a header to
fill the system completely.
I read about this problem and fix in car mechanics magazine several years
ago, cant remember if they used anything the seal the bottle though.

You could write to them though?
http://www.carmechanicsmag.co.uk/

Andy

444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

It is in the HBOL too!

They make a good enough fit as is.

The it is just a matter of loosening the bleed screw(s) till coolant
flows, closing them, running the engine up to temp, massaging the fat
hoses & repeating ad nauseam (well until no more air from bleeds)

What could be easier :-^)

***************************

Good luck with that. If it works, you'll resolve both problems together at
no cost - as long as there's no coolant leak.

Regards,

Philip

 

Snipped.

Of course if you've got a 106 both the inlet and outlet pipes to the
heater perform an upward U ensuring you can get air locks in both. The
cunning bit is that there's only a bleed valve in one of the pipes
which ensures you can't get the fscking thing bled properly.