How to straighten steering wheel on 405

I know it's done through adjusting the lengths of the steering arm rods
(coming from the rack). -

I can see the end of the rods (ball joint / hub end) seems just to go
onto a threaded shaft - with no lock nut. The arm coming out from the
rack has a locknut (onto the threaded bar) but I can't see a way to
turn either the threaded bar, or the arm coming out of the rack.

So how do you adjust it?

Are there any good methods to get the steering wheel straight 1st time
- or is it a case of adjuct it then drive it and repeat until happy?

 

Unless you have the necessary gear to measure front wheel tracking, you
don't. Take it to a garage or tyre fitter that you trust and get them to
have a good look at it and find out why this state of affairs has arisen.
On the way there stick a bit of masking tape on the wheel near the top at
the straight ahead position and then mark the actual straight ahead on it
with pencil or similar so that you know where straight ahead is after you
have manouvered it into the track setting bay.

See above.

Have you just bought this car?

Ron Robinson

 

You could do this yourself, but National Tyres do it with equipment that it
would take a monkey to get it wrong.
Only costs £22. Free check as well.

Regards
G

 

Trouble is, they do often employ monkeys. I had a "free" check and was told
it had to be adjusted, so I had to pay. I was asked to take it back a month
later. It was then checked by another person, and found to be way out. He
put it back to where it was originally.
My daughter had her tracking done 6 months ago, and has just had to have 2
new tyres fitted, they were both bald on the inside edge. I trust myself, it
doesn't matter how good or high tech the equipment is, it's all down to the
human interface in the end.
I bought a 106 with front tyres completely knackered on the inside edges,
steel threads showing. I reset the tracking, and the new tyres have hardly
worn since, after 20k. It is actually very simple as long as you know the
principle involved, the figures required, and are very careful.
Brian.

 

I think the tracking is actually OK - tyre wear is even steering feels
fine and is doesn't weave on bumps, side wind or the motorway. So I was
just going to add X number of turns to one side of the rack and take it
away from the other to straighten the wheel without changing the
tracking.
I'd prefer to learn how to do this sort of stuff myself and it's not
only cheaper but quicker and easier as well i can do it in 1/2 - 1 hour
at home after work which is a lot easier than taking it to a garage for
me.

Ian

 

How far out is the wheel. Remember that it fits onto splines on the end of
the steering column, you might just need to take it off, and replace it one
spline round.
If it is only half a spline out, then yes, alter each track rod by exactly
the same amount, max one turn, and try it.

 

Both track rods should be as near as dammit the same length - it would be
worth checking this before deciding to adjust these or move the steering
wheel.
Be very careful removing the wheel, they come off awfully suddenly when they
do come, so don't have your face in the way....

Ron Robinson

 

The trick is to undo the nut, then put it back on with a couple of
threads, so that the wheel has room to come off the splines, but doesn't
clonk you in the teeth. Of course, this occurred to me *after* I first
tried it...

 

I think its only ten degrees out or so, so I wont get is straight
moving the wheel on the splines. I was wondering how you adjust the rod
ends? Perhaps it'll be clearer when I'm sat there with the wheel off.

 

There are two parts to the track rod system. The end which has the ball
joint, and the rod which comes out of the steering rack. one screws inside
the other, and there is a locking nut to prevent it moving. On the rod which
comes out of the rack, you will see flats on it so that you can get a
spanner on it. First of all release the lock nut, then screw the rod into,or
out of the track rod end, remembering the number of turns, or par turns you
make. The rod will turn inside the gaitor on the end of the rack. Tighten
the lock nut when finished. Adjust both sides exactly the same amount, as
said before, one in, one out.
The whole thing might well be very tight to start with. Threads get
corroded. Bit of WD40 sprayed on before you start will help.
Brian.

 

Thanks Brian, I worked it out yesterday! Just the hex fixings on the
bar which were difficult to see made it difficult to see how to turn
it.

Yup the threads on the nut (and one bar) were tight - in one case
requiring the spanner to be jacked! (lots of WD40 applied and left)

Surprisingly it only needed 1 turn each end to straighten - I would
have thought it needed a lot more. The steering wheel was 10-20 deg
out.

Cheers Ian