Priming a diesel 205

Discussion in 'Peugeot 205' started by Tunku, Nov 13, 2006.

  1. Tunku

    Tunku Guest

    Hi chaps,
    Am having a problem pursuading fuel to come through the
    pipework so I can start my 205D which has lain neglected for a few months.
    It was drained of diesel, so the first thing I did was put a gallon of
    diesel in the tank using a gallon fuel container. Charged up the battery
    and the low fuel light flickered, then went off when I went into preheat
    mode. Enough fuel I thought. I left the ignition on to keep the solenoid
    energised, and started squidging the primer bulb. It will not firm up,
    which means it's not drawing fuel up, but when I opened the water drain on
    the filter, diesel pours out. Tried to fire it up, but it will not catch.
    It gives a cough or two with a puff of smoke out the exhaust, but that's
    it.
    Is there a more robust priming I can do to get the bugger to fire and keep
    firing?
     
    Tunku, Nov 13, 2006
    #1
  2. See my answer to your later post.
     
    Keith Willcocks, Nov 13, 2006
    #2
  3. Tunku

    Duncan Wood Guest

    easistart works suprisingly well.
     
    Duncan Wood, Nov 13, 2006
    #3
  4. Tunku

    Tunku Guest

    I don't think that is going to suck up the missing fuel though.
    Cheers.
     
    Tunku, Nov 13, 2006
    #4
  5. Tunku

    Duncan Wood Guest

    Itdepends, I can't remember if there's a lift pump on a 205, but if not
    then it quite often will suck up the missing fuel.
     
    Duncan Wood, Nov 14, 2006
    #5
  6. Tunku

    DervMan Guest


    I remember as a young lad being asked to pump the primer like b*****y for an
    age before it would start, whilst my buddy turned the engine over... :-/
     
    DervMan, Nov 14, 2006
    #6
  7. Tunku

    M Cuthill Guest

    Priming fuel to the injection pump is only part of priming a diesel.

    It's beena while since I done one of these, so the finer details may not be
    right.
    Either open the fuel filter bleed screw (if fitted) or remove the fuel feed
    pipe to the injection pump from the fuel filter head. Operate the primer
    until fuel free from air comes out. Tighten / reattach the hose. Now operate
    the primer until you feel increased resistance.

    Now you need to crack open the fuel injector pipes at the injectors. Just
    crack open a couple (1/4 - 1/2 turn is enough). Now crank the engine over
    until fuel free from air starts spurting out. Stop cranking the engine, and
    tighten the injector pipes. The engine should now start (even though a bit
    lumpy to begin with), but if it doesn't, repeat the procedure with the other
    two injector pipes.

    Under no circumstances put your hands near the injector pipes, while they're
    cracked open. The fuel pressure is high enough to break through your skin
    and cause severe medical problems.
     
    M Cuthill, Nov 14, 2006
    #7
  8. Tunku

    Clive George Guest

    <a long list of things to do when priming>

    When I changed the fuel pipes on my BX (XUD - same engine as the 205), I
    just primed it with the button on the filter. It took absolutely ages, but
    got there in the end. I think 'pump until you're really bored, then do it
    about 5 times as long' should do it.

    There was a bit of air left in there which caused a couple of misfires, but
    that soon cleared and it was running fine.

    cheers,
    clive
     
    Clive George, Nov 14, 2006
    #8
  9. Tunku

    M Cuthill Guest

    By finer details, I meant things like where the bleed screws are, which
    depended on what fuel filter and injection pump were fitted (had the option
    of several different fuel filters IIRC, aswell as both CAV and Bosch pumps
    on the XUD engines).
    There is also the possibility that he primer is knackered (common for the
    delphi filter top ones to fail), which means that fuel may not be getting
    pumped. Hence the removal of pipe/opening of bleed screw to check fuel is
    actually getting pumped up.

    The principles of bleeding a conventional (ie. mechanical pump) diesel are
    essentially the same (prime fuel to injection pump, then prime fuel to
    injectors). You don't always have to crack open the injector pipes, but it
    means the injectors get bled far quicker, with less chance of doing stupid
    things like burning out starter motors.
     
    M Cuthill, Nov 14, 2006
    #9
  10. Tunku

    Tunku Guest

    I suspect that my primer bulb thing may be buggered. I changed the fuel
    pipes on this 205 last year and never had this problem. Also I'm
    beginning to wonder if I have enough fuel in the tank mind you. The low
    fuel light is off but there is a known gallon of diesel in the tank.
    mebbe I need a bit more to get the pressure up. I'll try again tomorrow
    after I've fitted the new brake cylinder to my ZX. It's all go here at
    the moment.
     
    Tunku, Nov 14, 2006
    #10
  11. Tunku

    Al Gorithm Guest

    The older Pugs and citroens can have 1 0r 2 problems with the fuel,
    supply, first the metal pipes corrode and get pinhole leaks , if you
    have an air leak you aint never going to lift any diesel.
    secondly some of them have a metal block on the back of the coolant
    manifold on the rear of the engine block as a fuel heater , steel pipes
    araldited into the block , with different expansion rates eventually
    they leak..... more air in the system . The old lucas girling type
    primers are notorious for not pumping. the later bulb type are not too
    bad , but the button type primer is also prone to air leaking. I note
    the car has stood , something is not pumping or is leaking air in .

    The old air filter off , burning rag/ blowlamp held by air inlet still
    works (much less damaging than easy start), allow just the end of the
    flame to be dragged into the air inlet whilst cranking.
    Steve the grease
     
    Al Gorithm, Nov 16, 2006
    #11
  12. Tunku

    Tom Burton Guest

    How does that work?
     
    Tom Burton, Nov 16, 2006
    #12
  13. Tunku

    Duncan Wood Guest


    Same as a flame start, you put some pre vaporised fuel into the chamber.
    Easistarts easier & less likely to set your engine on fire.
     
    Duncan Wood, Nov 16, 2006
    #13
  14. We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
    I've never felt good about Easystart - many an old hand used to say
    engines got 'addicted' to it. Turns out they were right - the detonation
    levels can bugger rings and the engine won't cold start from that point
    on. My own misgivings were based on that, but mainly from the nasty
    noise an Easystarted engine was making as it fired. I didn't know
    exactly what was taking place inside, but on general principle I thought
    it didn't sound good.

    Otoh, I've found the burning rag/blowlamp method to be reliable, cheap
    and simple. Never set a car or truck alight with it either - yet.
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Nov 16, 2006
    #14
  15. Tunku

    Duncan Wood Guest


    It's the same principle though. We used to supply ether starters for high
    altitude applications on diesels, flame starters for cold temperatures.
    You've got to really overdo it to damage the rings.
     
    Duncan Wood, Nov 16, 2006
    #15
  16. We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
    Problem is, plenty people don't know how much - who ever reads the
    instructions? A small amount will suffice, but yer average EasyStart
    user just wellies it in.
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Nov 17, 2006
    #16
  17. Tunku

    Tunku Guest

    I've tried a couple of times, I reckon there just isn't enough fuel in the
    tank (a known one gallon), even though the low fuel light fickers then goes
    off. Tomorrow I'm going to chuck another gallon in and pour some down the
    fuel filter. Battery is back on charge. :)
     
    Tunku, Nov 18, 2006
    #17
  18. Tunku

    Tunku Guest

    Yay, a bit more diesel, and the primer worked !!!
     
    Tunku, Nov 18, 2006
    #18
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