Pug 306 over-heating (or not)

Discussion in 'Peugeot 306' started by Tim Jenkins, Jul 26, 2006.

  1. Tim Jenkins

    Tim Jenkins Guest

    Hi,

    I have an 'S' Reg Pug 306 Meridian 1.4 - recently the engine temperature
    gauge has started creeping up above 90 especially when the engine is under
    load it creeps up into the red. The fans work OK and I can't see any leaks
    etc.

    Got home last night, left the engine running on the drive, temperature
    dropped back down to normal 90 , noticed that whenever I put a piece of
    electrical kit on, the temperature gauge climbed instantly - switch it off
    then it dropped back again. With temperature at 90, I put the cold blower,
    rear heater, hazard flashers and main beam on and sure enough - up jumps the
    temperature needle into the red. Switch everything off....back to 90 again.

    Any ideas ? Thinking its an Electrical problem, the Haynes manual wiring
    diaggram shows an Engine Coolant sensor and an Enginer Coolant sender - any
    ideas what the difference between the 2 is - I was going to replace one (or
    both).

    Cheers,
    Tim
     
    Tim Jenkins, Jul 26, 2006
    #1
  2. Tim Jenkins

    Steve Birch Guest

    Got home last night, left the engine running on the drive, temperature
    <snip>

    Tim,

    I've heard of this before.
    I'd suggest checking for an earthing problem in the first instance. Look for
    corrosion of the wiring from the battery negative to the car chassis.
    Replace it if necessary. This MUST be a really good solid connection or you
    are asking for problems. Similarly, I seem to recall that there is another
    wire that earths the engine itself to the car chassis.
    If you have a poor earth connection like this, then when you turn on
    something that consumes current from the battery, a small voltage appears at
    the sensor wiring which can cause incorrect readings.

    Hope this helps,

    - Steve
     
    Steve Birch, Jul 26, 2006
    #2
  3. Tim Jenkins

    David Hearn Guest

    Negative earthing strap goes from battery to engine, and then from
    engine to chassis. Standard wiring was to have both leads crimped into
    a single connector on the engine. I had bonkers electrics problems one
    time (generally not starting, sometimes starting and saying I was doing
    140mph and then back to 0 in half a second whilst all number of relays
    were clattering!). All traced to a broken earth strap. Lead from
    battery to engine was fine (hence starter turned etc) - but strap from
    engine to chassis was intermittent. When it made connection, ECU was
    connected and it would start, any movement then made an intemittant
    connection, causing dodgy readings etc. AA guy fixed it for < £5 (for a
    new earth strap) and everything has been fine since.

    D
     
    David Hearn, Jul 26, 2006
    #3
  4. Tim Jenkins

    Tim Jenkins Guest

    Tim,
    Steve,

    Bingo ! The earth strap had completely corroded from the engine to the
    chassis - spot on with your diagnosis - much appreciated.

    Will fit a new one tomorrow and fingers crossed it will fix the problem.

    Cheers,Tim.
     
    Tim Jenkins, Jul 30, 2006
    #4
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