Vented disc's on 406

Any body have an idea as to hole positions for Venting disc's on 406


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Many thanks and best regards
Julian Wesson

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front discs are vented, rear discs should be left alone if you dont
want accidents

 

Huh ?

Front discs are already vented on all 406s, and infact on pretty much every
modern family car !

What do you mean by "hole positions" ?!?!

 

I think the OP is referring to cross-drilling holes in the
disks which supposedly improves braking performance and evens out
brake pad wear, like you get on some performance brakes.

I suspect that the OP's insurance company wouldn't be
to happy if they found out, so I think the best option
would be to fit something like the ATE power discs which
aren't too expensive compared to standard discs.

-Mark

 

Cross drilled through the disc and ventilation pockets.

 

Ahhhh, you're talking about DRILLED discs !

Vented discs are two discs stuck together, with radial fins inbetween - ie,
standard front discs on modern cars.

Solid discs are a single disc, as found on the rear of modern cars.

If you're after a set of drilled fronts, then just buy some - they aren't
expensive. Take a look at
http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/fr...roup=Discs&ProdType=Front&ProdSubType=Drilled

£120.56 for a pair of Black Diamond Drilled fronts.

HOWEVER : Drilled discs WILL crack after a period of time - I wouldn't
bother. My last pair only lasted about 18 months.

I'm assuming you're wanting a bit of a brake upgrade ? The best way to go
about it, is to change the pads and fluid first.
If you're currently experiencing fade, it's because the pads are
overheating. The best way to cure this, is to use better pads ! I can
recommend EBC's Redstuff Ceramic pads - Terry at
http://www.jrt-automotive.com/ will supply you a set for about £60-ish.
Steer clear of the Greenstuff - they aren't suitable for heavy cars (ie, a
406 !). Next, get yourself down to Halfords, and buy a litre of their DOT5.1
fluid for £14.99 (DO NOT buy DOT5 fluid - it's wierd and wonderful stuff,
and isn't compatible with "normal" brake systems !).
Bleed the system and replace your fluid completely with the DOT5.1 and swap
the pads. It'll only take an hour or so at your local garage (£40 ish) if
you won't want to do it yourself.
If your front discs aren't mint, then get a pair of EBC Turbogroove discs on
there while you're at it - again, Terry http://www.jrt-automotive.com/ will
sell you a pair for about £100 ish (there's normally a discount to be had
from the discs and pads at the same time - you oughtta get Turbogroove discs
and Redstuff Ceramics for around £150 ?). They're drilled AND grooved on the
surface, BUT the holes don't go right through the discs (they're just
"dimples" really) so they don't lead to cracking.

The end.

 

I have been reading this thread with interest and I'm puzzled. What is the
benefit of drilling the discs and having grooves?

 

406 Coupé 3.0i V6 24V ; 97-04 £209.54


Thanks for all the help.
I will take your advice on the pads and try them first as the disc's are
not cheap but look as though are the answer (when current one's need
replacing )
if the pads don't solve the problem.

I will have to remove lead weight from right foot.

Current vehicle weight 1500 kgs approx.

 

When you apply the brakes, the pad pushes against the disc. Some of the pad
is burnt away, producing brake dust and gas.

Brake fade is caused by both overheating pads, and a build up of gas and
burnt material between the pad and disc.

Grooved discs provide a path for this gas and dust to exit from between disc
& pad. The less "stuff" between the pad & disc, the more efficiently the
braking system works.

Drilled discs *that-are-designed-to-be-drilled* will suck air into the holes
as they turn, and throw it out of the vents on the outside edge of the disc.
Greater airflow through the disc, means greater cooling, means less fade.
Drilled discs that are just normal discs with holes in, don't do anything
except crack after a while.

With modern pads, both problems above are much reduced - but they do still
exist. If your braking system isn't really upto the job (ie, pretty much
every OEM system on the road today, discounting *proper* sports cars) then
you can make very noticeable gains.

Have a read of http://www.nomgle.com/brakes.pdf if you're interested
further.

 

Ah ha, you have the same car as me - http://www.nomgle.com

I've found that the standard Brembo Calipers and Discs are plenty adequate
for very hard use.
If you're having issues, then you've got some crappy pads on there.
Give Terry a phone at http://www.jrt-automotive.com - he'll do you the
Turbogroove discs *and* the Redstuff Ceramics for well under £200 (I think
it came to about £160 last time I enquired - i have the part numbers and
prices etc. all at home if you're interested ?).

You may as well do both together - if you swap the pads only, and they don't
sort the system to your satisfaction, you'll have to swap the pads again
when you do the discs !

 

Thanks for that, it is all new to me but does make sense. Presumably if
the manufacturer (i.e. Peugeot) were to fit the equivalent of drilled discs
it would solve the problem of discs warped due to heat which seems to affect
these cars (my new set warped after less than 10,000 miles and I regard
myself as a gentle driver).

 

I have just read your piece on brakes and very interesting it is too. I
thought you might like a totally useless bit of historical information. We
think power assisted braking is pretty modern but it is not. Centuries
ago, when real horse power was all you got, the brakes on a cart would be
operated by a rope connected to a lever beside the driver. They used to
take a loop of the rope around the front hub. Then, when you pulled on the
lever, the rope tightened on the hub and the turning force of the hub
greatly increased the power applied to the brake. As they say, there ain't
nothing new under the sun.

 

If you warped them driving gently, then it wasn't due to heat.

If your discs are hot, and you stop with your foot on the brakes (ie, at
traffic lights) then the bit under the pad won't cool down as quickly as the
rest = warped discs.
If your hubs aren't quite straight, then neither are the discs = warped
discs.
If you stop your car when the discs are hot, then the pad may burn onto the
disc slightly, leaving a desposit of X thickness = same symptoms as warped
discs.

There are a bunch of other reasons too ! Suffice to say, you have to get
your discs VERY VERY hot to warp them through heat alone.

 

The PDF isn't mine - I just found it on my travels
I've put some other bits up at http://www.nomgle.com/ if you're interested
in "car systems".

Nice !